Honda will recall approximately 344,000 Odyssey and 68,000 Element vehicles from the 2007-2008 model years in the U.S. to modify the Vehicle Stability Assist™ (VSA®) modulator. Honda has received customer complaints of brake pedals that feel "soft" or that gradually exhibit a pedal height that gets lower (closer to the floor) before the vehicle stops. In affected vehicles, this condition tends to very slowly increase over time.
Some VSA modulators were assembled in a manner that could allow air intrusion, making it possible for air to enter the modulator during the VSA self-check mode. While only a miniscule amount of air can enter the system during each check, over a period of months or years, the air will accumulate and can result in the "soft brake pedal" or "low brake pedal" condition symptoms associated with this issue. Although not all vehicles being recalled are affected by this issue, we are recalling all possible units to assure all customers that their vehicles will perform correctly.
Honda is announcing this recall to encourage all owners of these vehicles to take their vehicle to an authorized dealer as soon as they receive notification from Honda that their vehicle is affected. Notification to customers will start at the end of April.
Once owners of these vehicles receive written notification of this recall from Honda, they should contact their authorized Honda dealer to schedule an appointment for repair. When Honda identifies concerns of this nature, nothing is more important to the company than fulfilling our obligation and responsibility to alert our customers. To this end in addition to contacting customers by mail, after April 19, 2010, owners of these vehicles will be able to determine if their vehicle requires repair by going on-line or calling. Honda owners can go to www.recalls.honda.com or call (800) 999-1009, and select option 4.
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
Monday, March 8, 2010
How to buy a great used car or truck
Buying used can be a great deal -- if you play it smart.
Most three- or four-year-old cars and trucks can be surprisingly reliable, because automakers have done so much to improve the durability of every model.
Used vehicles cost a lot less, too -- an average of $14,925, or just a little more than half as much as the typical new vehicle.
You don't want to overpay, get a vehicle that's been abused, crashed or dunked in a flood and then dried out and shipped off to be sold to the gullible.
Let our 10 smart moves increase the chances your "new" used vehicle will be a great purchase:
Smart move 1. Check the reliability of the models you're considering. Two good sources of information are Consumer Reports magazine's April auto issue, available in the library or through the Consumer Reports Web site, and J.D. Power and Associates, an independent research company that polls buyers about their cars and trucks.
Think twice before buying a model that has significantly more problems than average, especially if major mechanical components such as the engine or transmission are prone to breakdowns.
Smart move 2. Insist on taking the vehicle to an independent mechanic for an examination. This is something any reputable seller should allow. If the seller refuses, walk away.
Make sure the mechanic examining the vehicle is familiar with the brand and has some kind of certification of expertise from a group such as the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence or ASE. This checkup could cost $100 to $200 (get the price first), but that's cheap compared to finding out too late about serious problems.
Smart move 3. Check the history of the vehicle through a service such as Experian's AutoCheck or Carfax. For about $20 you can use the vehicle identification number (VIN) to see in which state the vehicle was purchased and whether it has been registered in other states. Such checks are not perfect, but they may alert you if the vehicle was in a serious crash or other mishap such as a flood.
If you are buying from a dealer, insist that the dealer provide you with such a report for free and carefully compare the VIN number on the vehicle with that on the report to make sure they are the same.
Smart move 4. If saving money is your priority, you should try to buy from an individual rather than a new-car dealer.
When you've found a vehicle you like, use Edmunds.com or Kelley Blue Book to see how much it's worth.
Their calculators will ask for a lot of information about the car or truck, from the make and model to its mileage and optional equipment. In the end, you'll be given three values. The lowest is what the car would be worth as a trade-in; the others are the prices when sold by an individual or by a new-car dealer.
The "private party" price is always lower than the dealer price because there's more risk. You won't get a warranty (unless some of the original factory warranty remains) and some naughty people sell cosmetically reconditioned wrecks to bargain hunters just like you.
Smart move 5. If reliability is most important to you, and you are willing to pay extra for the peace of mind it provides, go to a new-car dealer and buy a certified used vehicle.
Certified vehicles are supposed to undergo rigorous inspection and testing by dealership mechanics before being resold. They typically have fewer miles and cosmetic problems, and come with some type of warranty, though such agreements can vary considerably.
This will raise the purchase price by an average of $1,680, according to J.D. Power and Associates.
Smart move 6. Check for a warranty. The Federal Trade Commission requires dealers to place a "Buyer's Guide" on the vehicle that tells whether the vehicle has a warranty and what that warranty covers.
If there's no warranty, the "Buyer's Guide" must be marked "as is." That means you take your chances.
Get any promises in writing. Verbal promises don't carry any weight in a dispute. Pull out paper and pencil anytime a salesperson says, "We'll fix anything that goes wrong."
Some newer vehicles may have part of the original manufacturer's warranty in effect. This will be particularly true, for example, as '08 models begin to be resold, because several automakers offered outstanding warranties for that model year.
Just remember, parts of that warranty could be voided if the previous owner didn't do all the proper maintenance, so pay attention to the next recommendation.
Smart move 7. Ask the dealer or private owners for service records. Ask the dealer whether the original owner bought the vehicle at the dealership. Then, ask whether the owner had it serviced at the dealership. If the answer is yes, ask for the service records.
If the dealer balks, claiming there is a privacy issue, ask him or her to contact the previous owner and get permission, or to simply cross out the previous owner's name and address before showing the records to you. If the dealer refuses or a private owner says he doesn't have the records, go elsewhere.
Smart move 8. Don't rush into a deal. You do not have three days to return a vehicle and get your money back. That's a common misperception. To see whether your state gives you any special rights as a used-car buyer, go to your state attorney general's Web site and check under consumer protection.
Smart move 9. Avoid dealers with a poor reputation. Ask the Better Business Bureau and your state's attorney general whether they've had any complaints. Ask friends and family whether they know anyone who has had a good -- or bad -- experience with that dealership.
Be particularly wary of independent used-car lots. It's even more important to verify their reputation before you buy.
Smart move 10. Make safety a priority. Favor cars and trucks that offer such lifesaving features as anti-lock brakes, side-curtain air bags and electronic stability control, which automatically tries to correct for a skid.
Also, check out how well the vehicle did in crash tests. The most demanding tests available to the public are done by the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety. Think twice before buying a model that scored poorly on two or more of the Institute's tests.
Dealers that sell and service the brand of vehicle you're considering can use the VIN number to determine whether your car or truck has ever been recalled for a safety defect and whether the repairs were made.
This isn't a deal breaker. Automakers must fix safety problems for free, no matter who owns the vehicle or how long ago the recall was issued. But you should know what repairs are needed and be prepared to get them done before you buy.
Most three- or four-year-old cars and trucks can be surprisingly reliable, because automakers have done so much to improve the durability of every model.
Used vehicles cost a lot less, too -- an average of $14,925, or just a little more than half as much as the typical new vehicle.
You don't want to overpay, get a vehicle that's been abused, crashed or dunked in a flood and then dried out and shipped off to be sold to the gullible.
Let our 10 smart moves increase the chances your "new" used vehicle will be a great purchase:
Smart move 1. Check the reliability of the models you're considering. Two good sources of information are Consumer Reports magazine's April auto issue, available in the library or through the Consumer Reports Web site, and J.D. Power and Associates, an independent research company that polls buyers about their cars and trucks.
Think twice before buying a model that has significantly more problems than average, especially if major mechanical components such as the engine or transmission are prone to breakdowns.
Smart move 2. Insist on taking the vehicle to an independent mechanic for an examination. This is something any reputable seller should allow. If the seller refuses, walk away.
Make sure the mechanic examining the vehicle is familiar with the brand and has some kind of certification of expertise from a group such as the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence or ASE. This checkup could cost $100 to $200 (get the price first), but that's cheap compared to finding out too late about serious problems.
Smart move 3. Check the history of the vehicle through a service such as Experian's AutoCheck or Carfax. For about $20 you can use the vehicle identification number (VIN) to see in which state the vehicle was purchased and whether it has been registered in other states. Such checks are not perfect, but they may alert you if the vehicle was in a serious crash or other mishap such as a flood.
If you are buying from a dealer, insist that the dealer provide you with such a report for free and carefully compare the VIN number on the vehicle with that on the report to make sure they are the same.
Smart move 4. If saving money is your priority, you should try to buy from an individual rather than a new-car dealer.
When you've found a vehicle you like, use Edmunds.com or Kelley Blue Book to see how much it's worth.
Their calculators will ask for a lot of information about the car or truck, from the make and model to its mileage and optional equipment. In the end, you'll be given three values. The lowest is what the car would be worth as a trade-in; the others are the prices when sold by an individual or by a new-car dealer.
The "private party" price is always lower than the dealer price because there's more risk. You won't get a warranty (unless some of the original factory warranty remains) and some naughty people sell cosmetically reconditioned wrecks to bargain hunters just like you.
Smart move 5. If reliability is most important to you, and you are willing to pay extra for the peace of mind it provides, go to a new-car dealer and buy a certified used vehicle.
Certified vehicles are supposed to undergo rigorous inspection and testing by dealership mechanics before being resold. They typically have fewer miles and cosmetic problems, and come with some type of warranty, though such agreements can vary considerably.
This will raise the purchase price by an average of $1,680, according to J.D. Power and Associates.
Smart move 6. Check for a warranty. The Federal Trade Commission requires dealers to place a "Buyer's Guide" on the vehicle that tells whether the vehicle has a warranty and what that warranty covers.
If there's no warranty, the "Buyer's Guide" must be marked "as is." That means you take your chances.
Get any promises in writing. Verbal promises don't carry any weight in a dispute. Pull out paper and pencil anytime a salesperson says, "We'll fix anything that goes wrong."
Some newer vehicles may have part of the original manufacturer's warranty in effect. This will be particularly true, for example, as '08 models begin to be resold, because several automakers offered outstanding warranties for that model year.
Just remember, parts of that warranty could be voided if the previous owner didn't do all the proper maintenance, so pay attention to the next recommendation.
Smart move 7. Ask the dealer or private owners for service records. Ask the dealer whether the original owner bought the vehicle at the dealership. Then, ask whether the owner had it serviced at the dealership. If the answer is yes, ask for the service records.
If the dealer balks, claiming there is a privacy issue, ask him or her to contact the previous owner and get permission, or to simply cross out the previous owner's name and address before showing the records to you. If the dealer refuses or a private owner says he doesn't have the records, go elsewhere.
Smart move 8. Don't rush into a deal. You do not have three days to return a vehicle and get your money back. That's a common misperception. To see whether your state gives you any special rights as a used-car buyer, go to your state attorney general's Web site and check under consumer protection.
Smart move 9. Avoid dealers with a poor reputation. Ask the Better Business Bureau and your state's attorney general whether they've had any complaints. Ask friends and family whether they know anyone who has had a good -- or bad -- experience with that dealership.
Be particularly wary of independent used-car lots. It's even more important to verify their reputation before you buy.
Smart move 10. Make safety a priority. Favor cars and trucks that offer such lifesaving features as anti-lock brakes, side-curtain air bags and electronic stability control, which automatically tries to correct for a skid.
Also, check out how well the vehicle did in crash tests. The most demanding tests available to the public are done by the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety. Think twice before buying a model that scored poorly on two or more of the Institute's tests.
Dealers that sell and service the brand of vehicle you're considering can use the VIN number to determine whether your car or truck has ever been recalled for a safety defect and whether the repairs were made.
This isn't a deal breaker. Automakers must fix safety problems for free, no matter who owns the vehicle or how long ago the recall was issued. But you should know what repairs are needed and be prepared to get them done before you buy.
2010 Buick Enclave Comparison
we can help you determine which vehicle best meets your needs. Our Comparison tool is designed to help you evaluate the advantages from one vehicle over another, by listing the pricing, engine specification and more side by side. Is the 2010 Buick Enclave 22 mpg fuel economy better than similar vehicles you are considering? Let our tool help you choose which automobile is right for you.
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|  |  |  | ||||
| Most Similar | |||||||
| All Trims | |||||||
| All Buicks | |||||||
| Year | 2010 | ||||||
| Make | Buick | ||||||
| Model | Enclave | ||||||
| Trim | |||||||
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| Buick Enclave CX | Ford Flex SEL EcoBoost | Chevrolet Traverse LTZ | GMC Acadia SLT | ||||
| MSRP | $37,165.00 | $36,115.00 | $37,985.00 | $40,585.00 | |||
| Destination | $775.00 | $775.00 | $775.00 | $775.00 | |||
| Internet Price | Get Price Quote | Get Price Quote | Get Price Quote | Get Price Quote | |||
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| Buick Enclave CX | Ford Flex SEL EcoBoost | Chevrolet Traverse LTZ | GMC Acadia SLT | ||||
| City (mpg) | 16 | 16 | 17 | 17 | |||
| Highway (mpg) | 22 | 22 | 24 | 24 | |||
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| Buick Enclave CX | Ford Flex SEL EcoBoost | Chevrolet Traverse LTZ | GMC Acadia SLT | ||||
| Standard Engine | 3.6L 288hp V6 | 3.5L 355hp V6 | 3.6L 288hp V6 | 3.6L 288hp V6 | |||
| Horsepower | 288 @ 6300 RPM | 355 @ 5700 RPM | 288 @ 6300 RPM | 288 @ 6300 RPM | |||
| Torque | 270 @ 3400 RPM | 350 @ 3500 RPM | 270 @ 3400 RPM | 270 @ 3400 RPM | |||
| Valves | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | |||
| Displacement (cc) | 3564 | 3496 | 3564 | 3564 | |||
| Bore X Stroke (in.) | 3.7 X 3.4 | 3.6 X 3.5 | 3.7 X 3.4 | 3.7 X 3.4 | |||
| Compression Ratio | 11.3:1 | 10.0:1 | 11.4:1 | 11.3:1 | |||
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| Buick Enclave CX | Ford Flex SEL EcoBoost | Chevrolet Traverse LTZ | GMC Acadia SLT | ||||
| Curb Weight - Automatic (lb.) | 4984.7 | 4660.6 | 4790.6 | 4722.3 | |||
| Wheelbase (in.) | 119 | 117.9 | 118.9 | 118.9 | |||
| Length (in.) | 201.5 | 201.8 | 205 | 201.1 | |||
| Width (in.) | 79 | 88.8 | 78.4 | 78.9 | |||
| Height (in.) | 72.5 | 68 | 72.8 | 72.8 | |||
| Track Front (in.) | 67.3 | 65.4 | 67.8 | 67.1 | |||
| Track Rear (in.) | 67.1 | 65.4 | 67.4 | 67.1 | |||
| Ground Clearance (in.) | 7.2 | N/A | 7.2 | 7.4 | |||
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| Buick Enclave CX | Ford Flex SEL EcoBoost | Chevrolet Traverse LTZ | GMC Acadia SLT | ||||
| Standard Seating | 7 | 7 | 7 | 7 | |||
| Front Headroom (in.) | 40.4 | 41.8 | 40.4 | 40.4 | |||
| Rear Headroom (in.) | 39.4 | 40.5 | 39.4 | 39.3 | |||
| Front Legroom (in.) | 41.3 | 40.8 | 41.3 | 41.3 | |||
| Rear Legroom (in.) | 36.8 | 44.3 | 36.8 | 36.9 | |||
| Front Shoulder Room (in.) | 62 | 58.4 | 62 | 61.9 | |||
| Rear Shoulder Room (in.) | 61.4 | 58.1 | 61.3 | 61.1 | |||
| Front Hip Room (in.) | 57.2 | 55.5 | 59.1 | 57.8 | |||
| Rear Hip Room (in.) | 57 | 55 | 57.8 | 57.9 | |||
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| Buick Enclave CX | Ford Flex SEL EcoBoost | Chevrolet Traverse LTZ | GMC Acadia SLT | ||||
| Passenger Volumn (cu. ft.) | N/A | N/A | N/A | N/A | |||
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| Buick Enclave CX | Ford Flex SEL EcoBoost | Chevrolet Traverse LTZ | GMC Acadia SLT | ||||
| Front Suspension | strut | strut | strut | strut | |||
| Rear Suspension | multi-link | multi-link | multi-link | multi-link | |||
| Tires | 255/60R19 | 235/60R18 | 255/55R20 | 255/55R20 | |||
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| Buick Enclave CX | Ford Flex SEL EcoBoost | Chevrolet Traverse LTZ | GMC Acadia SLT | ||||
| Power Door Locks | Std. | Std. | Std. | Std. | |||
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| Buick Enclave CX | Ford Flex SEL EcoBoost | Chevrolet Traverse LTZ | GMC Acadia SLT | ||||
| 4 Wheel Drive / All Wheel Drive | 4x4 wheel drive | 4x4 wheel drive | front wheel drive | front wheel drive | |||
| ABS Brakes (2 or 4 Wheel) | Std. | Std. | Std. | Std. | |||
| Limited Slip Differential or Axle | N/A | N/A | N/A | N/A | |||
| Vehicle Stability Control System | Std. | Std. | Std. | Std. | |||
| |||||||
| Buick Enclave CX | Ford Flex SEL EcoBoost | Chevrolet Traverse LTZ | GMC Acadia SLT | ||||
| Radio | N/A | N/A | N/A | N/A | |||
| Cassette Player | N/A | N/A | N/A | N/A | |||
| CD Player | Yes | N/A | Yes | Yes | |||
| CD Changer | N/A | Yes | N/A | N/A | |||
| DVD Player | N/A | N/A | N/A | N/A | |||
| Navigation Aid | Std. | Std. | Std. | Std. | |||
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| Buick Enclave CX | Ford Flex SEL EcoBoost | Chevrolet Traverse LTZ | GMC Acadia SLT | ||||
| Cruise Control | Std. | Std. | Std. | Std. | |||
| Tilt Steering | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | |||
| Telescopic Steering Column | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | |||
| |||||||
| Buick Enclave CX | Ford Flex SEL EcoBoost | Chevrolet Traverse LTZ | GMC Acadia SLT | ||||
| Air Conditioning | Std. | Std. | Std. | Std. | |||
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| Buick Enclave CX | Ford Flex SEL EcoBoost | Chevrolet Traverse LTZ | GMC Acadia SLT | ||||
| Driver Airbag | Std. | Std. | Std. | Std. | |||
| Front Side Airbag | Std. | Std. | Std. | Std. | |||
| Passenger Side Airbag | Std. | Std. | Std. | Std. | |||
| Rear Side Airbag | N/A | N/A | N/A | N/A | |||
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| Buick Enclave CX | Ford Flex SEL EcoBoost | Chevrolet Traverse LTZ | GMC Acadia SLT | ||||
| Driver Multi-Adjustable Power Seat | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | |||
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| Buick Enclave CX | Ford Flex SEL EcoBoost | Chevrolet Traverse LTZ | GMC Acadia SLT | ||||
| Sunroof / Moonroof | N/A | N/A | N/A | N/A | |||
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